Uh, no, it isn’t.

Spotted on one of the hand-outs that was dispersed last week:

I’m starting to think I’ve had (another) stroke.

It reads: “Is this true or false? Relative to ultrasonic testing, air is considered a good conductor and for this reason ultrasound will carry long distances in air.”

First, “relative to ultrasonic testing”? Not sure what that might mean.

Second, no, air is a rather horrible conductor of ultrasonic sound energy.

It reads as “TRUE – Relative to ultrasonic testing, air is considered a good conductor for this reason ultrasound will carry long distances in air.”

Uh… no, it isn’t and, no, it won’t. Air (of any kind or density) is an absolutely horrible sound transmission medium.

Funny(ish) of the Moment

Occasionally, one of the instructors, who jokingly refers to “National Aviation Parts Association” every now and again references another locally-owned proprietor and I have a bit of difficulty discerning the seriousness of the remark…

Why so?

Because what he says isn’t necessarily what I hear.

It’s called “House of Hose“. Yep, it’s a legitimate business.

But what I hear is “House of Ho’s”. Run by some friendly chap named, Upgrayedd.

Starting a Rotary Engine…

Spotted on the Tubes of You — a hand-prop start of a rotary engine.

Now, for everyone else, this could be labeled “How Not To…”. No, nobody was puréed by the spinning prop. But there were so many possibilities for things to go pear-shaped rather quickly.

  • Inside of a hangar
  • Against a wall
  • The position of controls and the motor (and prop!) limit your vectors for egress
  • Walking around a spinning prop
  • Without ear protection (or eye protection)
  • And horrifying hand-propping technique involving walking slowly backward

Steve Thorn (FlightChops) and Kris Finkbeiner (with TacAero) demonstrates what we like to call the right way to hand-prop.

I rather like the effort Steve has shared in aviation through FlightChops. Rather inspiring, honestly.

A few last moment remarks on walking (staggering?) backward — and this applies to walking, running, bicycling, motorcycles, cars, trucks… but probably not locomotives (unless you’re its engineer):

Always watch where you’re going.

Never watch where you were.

Remain focused on the now and never fixate on what was.

Also, also: Just remembered that Steve did a couple of episodes on hand-propping. Here’s one that he covered on a de Havilland DHC-2 Beaver:

Project 𝑛+1 ≆ heat

The wood-burning stove is, itself, fine, but its installation appears to have been cobbled together by a drunken installer then bashed into the house — no doubt without those annoying or inconvenient permits or building codes. We have it sorted, for now.

But, next on the task list is getting the 50 year old electric furnace sorted out. We’re entering fall and overnight outdoor temps are dropping to about -5℃. When we enter the depths of winter, we’ll see daytime temps as low as -25℃. Sure, a fireplace is “cozy”, but we won’t want to rely solely on the fireplace all winter.

I’d like to get the ancient electric furnace working. I don’t want the indoors to be a tropical 28℃ in the winter. But I’d be happy if we could have a safety-limit of 15℃.

A couple of things can be readily determined — well, apart from its extraordinarily-obvious “It doesn’t work” condition.

It hasn’t a thermostat. Not a big deal, one can just jumper the two wires on a simplistic furnace. And, while this particular, er, domicile absolutely cannot justify a smart-thermostat, just any thermostat will work. I think I’ve still the old Honeywell thermostat that I’d replaced in the Moses Lake house with a Nest. That’ll solve the thermostat problem.

Are its breakers tripped? Nope — they’re fine. At the service panel and the on-appliance breakers.

There’s not a chance in hell that anything in here would be quick to repair. Dig in and make a list of every potential at plausible fault points:

Visual appearance of the exterior:

The low-voltage thermostat wiring (24VAC) needs a jumper wire between two terminals. On an older style HVAC, wires for the thermostat were typically connected to terminals L and 2. Terminal 2 would then be shunted to terminal C.

Shown here: quickly extended term 2 to C

Just looking at it, one could see that the jumper wire was simply folded back out of the way. Why in the world would they have disconnected that? Were they gnawing on the wires to strip off a few inches of insulation then attaching them and hoping for the best? Eh, easy enough to correct. But that’s not all, with certainty.

Is it in “winter” mode? Yep. That’s a switch to turn off, or switch between enabling heat or blower only.

Knowing that previous occupant fancied himself an electrician, I’ll have to look at the innards of wiring… he no doubt “fixed” it thinking he was going to make it work or work better (or work more better?). Ah, yep… he fixed it so well that the power wires for the blower itself have been cut…

…then spliced together… others disconnected and ends removed entirely.

Quite fortuitously, manufacturers back in the day, Coleman in this case, included a complete wiring diagram inside the service panel.

That’s a win right there.

There’s but one of me to do the work, and I’ve a limited amount of time available during the week to work on prioritized corrections to make this, uh, habitation livable. Sure, there are other extremely important issues to be sorted as well, but during the time I have available, I need to address one problem at a time.

  1. Identify everything non-standard.
  2. Remove all of the fixes.
  3. Restore it to its original condition.

So, it doesn’t work yet.

But it will.